firing 9th march

what a stunning morning to be a surfer!! as the sun rose this morning it lit up the perfectly groomed east swell. An gentle north-west wind was sculpting beach breaks wedges into sweet little piping tubes. I shot the best tube rides on video today… Johnny Craig got some ridiculously deep barrels, the best ones were on the early low tide before I’d got my gear setup…he got a crazy one that will just have to sit in my memory banks, as I’m sure it will his.

He was in this little left-hand grinder for a good 7-8 seconds!!

Michelle Merrkin loves an early surf… there are not many days the morning sun doesn’t see her in the ocean

I know that Toddy “tango” Carter had a bloody good morning!!…. later on when I paddled out he got one so deep and pig dogged it through an impossible section… we were screaming our heads off!