Chilly west winds, steam billowing off the sand, its a half hour before the sun peaks its scalpe over the horizon, but there is a half dozen frothing grommies that have already climbed into there soggy wetsuits and are out in the water catching anything that moves. There is gaggle of northern groms that have caught the surf-bug real bad and time in the ocean is the only cure… I love watching these dudes have a blast in the waves, its what surfing is all about….. being sooooo hooked… yew!!
Jakob Dolan has been diagnosed with “chronic surf addiction”
only small waves about this morning, but conditions were good
a day for the groms
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