mid morning 7th august

After the sunrise check of the beach this morning, I thought maybe leaving a few hours might be a good plan. Yesterday’s lake like conditions were replaced by a new south swell over night but it wasn’t too big at dawn and it looked a little disjointed and unorganised like those new south swells tend to be for the first 12-24 hours. Bit more tide, time to settle in and maybe it will get better, so back I came around 9.30.. it was a tad bigger, waist to shoulder high but the wind had come up more than the swell. A stiff southerly (unpredicted) was sorta tearing into the lumpy waves. Matty Wyborn thankfully paddled out and gave me a target for a half hour. Mat’s a bloody good groveller and made something of the weak small chop.. hopefully more swell and less wind will fill in over the next day or so, but the real juice looks like it will arrive Friday, big wave weekend ahead!

Mat Wyborn testing out some fresh sleds

Where to??

surfing sistas