revealed 20th december

A thick blanket of cloud earlier this morning got pulled back to reveal a perfect blue sky day. The winds are light offshore at the moment and the swell is trying to pick up from our “lake like” conditions that we had to endure all weekend. Crew with fat, wide or long boards will be getting some joy in the knee to waist high peelers, may get better at some breaks with the dropping tide. Some reports are talking up a mid week swell, not sure we will get anything bigger than 3-foot, but at the moment 3-foot would be pretty handy.

Brett Caller racking up some tip time just after 7 this morning

It was cloudy and then the sun came out!… think this is Chris Simpson going for a burn on the stand paddle board

yellow tailed black

“have I got this thing around the right way??”

Calla kick!

Ronnie Goddard… see more from todays session HERE

movie of the year?

Well for full on impact and heavy tube riding, I haven’t seen a DVD release this year that tops the new Jamie O’Brien film. This film has hit the Coopers stores just in time for christmas and I’m reckon any frothing surfer would be pleased to find this one in the bottom of their chrissy stocking. CLICK HERE to read our review and see the short trailer clip.

summery loggery

Because it’s feeling all summery today, I thought I would post up this new clip that a mate sent me last week. Nathan Oldfield has really captured the feeling of a steamy, hazy summers day, complete with some handy footwork from Johnny Gill and Sean Finnelley

Summery Loggery: A Patagonia Short from Nathan Oldfield on Vimeo.

This is a short for my friends at Patagonia, featuring Johnny Gill & Sean Finnelley getting some crispy little summery peelers at their local.

I cut this piece to a song called ‘Heimat Sterne – A suite in 3 movements’ by my mate Brendan Berlach. You can seek more of his joyous work at

Thanks for watching a thing for

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