the best 2nd may

I saw and photographed some of the best waves I’ve seen in a long, long time this morning. On first inspection I didn’t think it was going to be all that good, the swell looked junky and solid but not over the top big, that was at 6am, by the time we had found a spot holding the slightly wobbly swell, it had doubled in size. A massive east swell was thumping in on the Coffs coast, way, way bigger that what was predicted. Sage and Harley got some pretty sik looking rides…Yewwww

This was the first section of what is the best beach break barrel I have ever seen in my life. Sage Joske riding a 5”7 twin fin fish is starting to exit the first tube of this wave, I had shot around 12-14 frames before we got to this point of him slotted, but this was just the gentle part, the next section down the beach swelled in size and thickness and he pulled into a freakin round keg that made this shot look like kiddies corner at diggers beach, so so so unfortunately I had blown my buffer on the camera (meaning it wouldn’t let me take anymore shots until in loaded what it had already shot) so I was forced to just sit and watch as he disappeared into the bowels of this beastly end section only to emerge out of the doggy door way down the beach…. EPIC!! still shaking thinking about it!

After having a go on his little twin fin, Sage then took his beautifully shaped single fin for a burn….. the boards that get shaped in his shaping shed today will have a ton of inspiration in them after this session.

got more than 20 shots of Harley inside this perfect grinder, might put the full sequence up in a few days

oh yeah…. the last month of autumn is going to rock

This was the only other surfer that paddled out when I was there. A dude named Mitch, he got two smoking barrels then paddled in

large wave…… click here to see a few more of today’s sess

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