thick lips 15th december

It wasn’t a massive swell this morning, but the beach I was at, sure was challenging. Two of the coast’s best surfers were barely scraping into these mini death kegs. The low tide dredgers were hollow, but weren’t that pretty. Barrels were made, but beating were dished out along this shallow sandbar early today. Even thou the waves were just head-high, only handful of surfers would had much success out there. I reckon Johnny and Harley will still be picking sand out of their shorts this afternoon.